Farmer Rebecca Thistlethwaite and her family never
anticipated that they would start a family farm, scale it 430%, and then close it
all within six years.
But then, who would? Despite
their farm's closing, the light at the end of their 80-hour farming workweek
tunnel turned out to be enlightenment. She, her husband and daughter took a year off of farming not
to rest, but to search for the most innovative and successful farming models
across the U.S. Their time off-farm allowed Rebecca to manifest the essential handbook for starting and running a sustainable farm business, Farms with a Future.
Thistlethwaite’s book is a literal
farm-business boot camp for greenhorns and aficionados alike. Read
it as a new farmer and you’ll avoid many of the pitfalls that new farms make. Read
it as an established farm seeking to transition to local markets, and you’ll
reap the benefits of starting your journey to becoming a truly community-supported
farm.
Not only does Farms with a Future get real honest, like Rebecca’s blog, but the book divulges farm dos and don’ts from a variety of farm
types. Farms such as Bluebird Grain Farms in Washington, which grow and market
heirloom grain varietals, share their discoveries over the years. And the
dairy, Butterwork Farm, which is touted as “one of the most successful organic
farmstead creameries in the nation,” is featured as a prosperous model despite
the volatility of the dairy industry.
If you want to serve your community food, you
will need to get business savvy to do
so. This is one of the main take aways of Farms
with a Future. Each chapter will get you started on various
considerations such as accounting and infrastructure, but clearly each chapter
could have been its own book. Just know going in that you’ll have to go elsewhere for additional
reading on the chapters’ themes, but as it turns out, this isn’t a bad thing.
Creating the right foundation for your farm is an essential beginning to your
business and this book covers it all.
Rebecca opens by recounting how she and her
family closed the farm to explore what successful farm businesses look like all
over the country but is far from dreary – by the end of the book she and her family are taking what they learned to start a new farm. And this is great news. After all, we need
more farmers to grow our country food, to be equally connected to community
and land, and that can revel in the slightly-controlled chaos that is farming.
I caught up with Rebecca to learn more about
her book and to hear about the next iteration of farm that she and her family
are in the process of starting.
FJ: After reading your book, sustainability really takes on a new
dimension as you include the farmer, local community, environment and economic
viability in your definition. How have your thoughts of sustainability changed
throughout your journey as a farmer and writer?
RT: I first viewed sustainability just through an environmental
lens until I had the opportunity to study abroad in Belize and do extensive
traveling throughout Latin America in the 1990’s. Developing countries teach
you that there is no separation of 'man' and 'nature', and that you can't have
environmental conservation without addressing issues of power, poverty, land
distribution, access to education, and other social issues. I also came back
realizing that new models must be created here because sadly, most of the world
tries to emulate First World consumerism and industrialization. The planet is
doomed if everybody tries to live like a suburban soccer mom, to use the
euphemism. We need more sustainable models- those are what I hope the rest of
the world will emulate. Not our opulence, consumerism, and complacency.
FJ: You’ve spent a few years researching some of the more
successful sustainable farming operations out there. Are you seeing
predominately new farmers making it work, or are multi-generational farms also
making the transition to more direct markets and achieving greater economic
viability at the same time?
RT: I have seen both – I have seen many new farmers get started
with a lot of enthusiasm, media attention, and high ideals only to succumb to
economic realities a few years into it (my own farm in California was probably
an example of that), and I have seen multi-generation farms try new growing
practices and marketing techniques that are likely going to 'save their farms.’
And I have seen the opposite too – new farms who are smart and business
oriented that will probably last and family-farms that keep repeating the same
mistakes.
I would say, overall, that trying to farm without any familial
help is extremely difficult. If somebody plans to do that, they should at least
have a strong network of friends who can help pitch in (labor & capital).
In our own lives, we have moved to a place where we have stronger familial and
social networks, giving us a fighting chance to get a new farming operation off
the ground. We just did not have that in California (probably because we were
working to hard to cultivate relationships well). Writing this book reinforced
the idea of social capital – that is, the value of your social networks.
FJ: Have you seen any parallels of things that don't seem to work?
What are they and how can new farmers avoid these pitfalls?
"There are more pitfalls to fall into than there are potholes in a farm road. The biggest one is probably not seeking out advice from other farmers and feeling like you have to make all your own mistakes."
RT: There are more pitfalls to fall into than there are potholes
in a farm road. The biggest one is probably not seeking out advice from other
farmers and feeling like you have to make all your own mistakes. Yes, there are
great books out there, websites, videos, magazines, etc. but nothing beats good
ol' fashioned communication. Seek out the farmers in your region, sit next to
people you don't know at conferences, attend trade meetings, call extension
agents, chitchat with vendors at the farmers market, etc. The other big pitfall
is not taking your bookkeeping seriously. Too many farmers think that if they
have cash on hand or in the bank that they are doing just fine. It's much more complicated
than that. Seek out some professional bookkeeping help if numbers aren't your
thing.
FJ: Have you noticed a gender division of labor on these farms or
are women and men sharing the workload for the same tasks? If you have seen a
division of labor, what do females bring to the table that's inherently
different from their male counterparts? (Yes, we're talking in broad
generalizations here!)
RT: I generally see women doing more of the marketing and sales,
tending to be more social and friendly. It's probably a smart fit- you don't
want a cranky male farmer sitting at your farmers market booth trying to sell
anything. I see women really pushing the envelope on innovating – they are
often the ones asking the questions like, why can't we do this differently? How
can we make this job less backbreaking? Why can't we use fewer pesticides or
less water? Maybe it's because women are not often taught the standard tasks
seen in agriculture that makes them more open to inquisitiveness. They have more
of an openness to learning.
FJ: You talk about the economic downturn as being one of the
factors that led you to close down your farming business with your husband in
2010. Are things improving out there for local, small-scale producers? What
about in more rural areas where the markets (i.e. shoppers) can't afford the
same type of price bracket for their food?
RT: I still see it as a mixed bag. Most farmers in this country
still don't break even. They are living off the income of outside work,
subsidies, insurance payments, inherited land, free family labor, etc. Yes,
there are increasing numbers of farmers’ markets, so-called 'farm to table'
restaurants, grocery stores with a 'locally-grown' section, etc. But yet the
vast majority of farmers are small-scale and not making more than $10,000 a
year. I can't wait to see what the next USDA Ag Census data shows us. It seems
that a lot of moneyed players are entering the niche foods market – folks like
hedge-fund billionaires, ag-land investment firms, as well as post dot-com millionaires. They start their
operations with huge capital resources, slick branding campaigns, vertical
integration, and the like. How will family-farms compete with that? I am not
sure. I really hope consumers will see through the glitz and go for
authenticity. I remain committed to telling the stories of real family-farmers
who are personally invested in the stewardship of their land and communities.
This is what I attempted to do with my book.
FJ: Do you think that industrial-scale marketing of
"local" and "sustainable" foods is impacting farm-direct
markets? How can small farms be more competitive than the chain stores that now
tout seasonal, local, and small-scale wares?
RT: I do think it's a real challenge, but a farmer who stays true
to telling their story authentically will rise above much of the fluff and
outright lies. Using third-party certifiers can also help tell your story
because it demonstrates your commitment to certain values rather than
meaningless words like 'natural' or 'sustainable.’ Heck, even Monsanto uses
that word (sustainable)! I also think that more writers and bloggers like
ourselves need to start asking hard questions of the stores, restaurants,
manufacturers, etc. that are using these words without any certification or
metrics behind them. Farmers have a harder time calling the bluff of their
local food trade for fear of repercussions, but those of us not farming for a
living should be more willing to roll-up our sleeves. It helps keep people
honest.
FJ: Now that you’ve landed on your new farm in Oregon, what are
your plans for starting your business? How do you plan to find that work/life
balance that didn't happen last time?
RT: Well first off, we are planning more of a glorified homestead
than a commercial farm. We will sell a bit here and there, mostly within our
little 500-person community. In my business plan I put together, one of my
goals was that between my husband and I, we would not spend more than an
average of .5 of our time on the farm activities (20-hours a week). That will
help solidify our work/life balance. Sundays are fundays and we have three
camping trips planned for the summer. We are going to get our irrigation system
on a timer and never have more animals than a neighbor kid could not care for
while we’re away for a few days. That is our threshold. We are also making the
homestead a fun place to hang out so more of our social life can center around
our ‘farm.’ We are making a disc golf course, installing a zip line over the
pond, treehouse, guest studio, and maybe someday a nano-brewery! We are really
inspired by authors Sep Holzer and Mark Shepherd, doing more of a permaculture
model of annuals, perennials, animals, fish, mushrooms, education, and more.
Our land really dictates that we keep things small and diversified. Half our
acreage is in a pond and wetland forest, so we can't really do anything big
even if we wanted to.
FJ: Each chapter could be it's own book in delving into the nitty-gritty
details and nuances of farming! Where do you go for practical farming
information like determining which feeder to buy, how to lay your irrigation
and other answers to the day-to-day farming puzzles that come up? Where did you
look for this information when you were first starting out?
RT: Both my husband and I started with a good educational
foundation of biology and ecology. That helped us look at each challenge from a
holistic perspective and also use biology as the foundation for anything. After
that, it was classic books by Eliot Coleman, Joel Salatin, and John Jeavons
where I learned farming techniques. My husband apprenticed with an elderly
farming couple in the foothills of California, learning to grow enormous
onions, garlic, tomatoes, and other quality veggies. I apprenticed with farmers
in Idaho, Washington, Oregon, and California. So gaining practical, hands-on
education without the risk of owning the farm is a good way to go. Once we
started farming, we tried using a few different list-servs, talking to other
farmers, but I would say we got the most help from salespeople, believe it or
not. Just writing this makes me question my sanity! But we had an excellent
feedman who answered any questions we had about animal feed. We had a couple
great seedsmen who would find any crop variety we were looking for, tell us
seeding rates, type of innoculant, etc. We had good graphic and web designers
who would give us all kinds of free advice about marketing. Our fencing
supplier always gave us copious advice on setting up the best electric fence.
These peoples’ jobs are to be on the forefront of agriculture, and in many
cases, they will do the research for you. Maybe we were lucky, but they never
tried to sell us anything we didn't want or need. Oh, one last thing – old
farming books that predate chemical farming. Every livestock farmer should own
a copy of "Feeds and Feeding" from 1910. That's where we got the idea
to try growing mangel beets and rape mustard for our pigs.
FJ: What's your advice for new farmers or farms looking to
transition to more local markets?
RT: Marketing is an art form that must be constantly adapted and
honed over time. Be creative, be honest, be professional, and follow-through.
If you are trying to sell into local restaurants, call them on a regular day,
deliver on time what you said you would bring, pack it well, invoice it
properly, and coach the relationship over time. Invite all the chefs for a farm
tour, for example. Or meet once a winter with your chefs to find out what they
would like you to grow/raise next season. Make it a partnership that both of
you benefits from and co-market each other. Also, be patient- many of these
things take time. You may not be meeting your sales goals right away, but you
have to earn the trust of your customers and make them fall in love with you.
FJ: Is there anything else that you would like to share with us?
RT: "Don't reproduce error in bulk" was one of the best
bits of advice we got on our trip from young farmer Jerica Cadman of Jefferson,
Texas. Start small, experiment, hone your skills, create efficiencies, and then
grow if the market is there.
It's great to know people are making small operations work without in a sustainable way -- without toxic chemicals.
ReplyDeleteI am so glad a friend recommended this link with this interview. I have started the business planning process for expanding my 1 acre hobby farm into a 10 acre production-for-my-community farm and sometimes I think I am crazy! I look forward to reading "Farms with a Future". Maybe while it's raining today...
ReplyDeleteGood luck with your expanded venture -- although luck has little to do with it. Knowledge makes all the difference and, between your one-acre experience and your willingness to learn, I'll bet you do fine.
DeleteThank you for the info.
ReplyDelete